Gulmarg Calling...

Lucknow - Delhi - Srinagar - Gulmarg and Back (total expenditure ~ Rs 13000)

Delhi to Srinagar flight - Rs. 3300 (750 Km)

View from the plane

we took a low cost carrier which was booked 10 days in advance and got a good bargain for the flight prices. The minute we got down the flight, the temperature outside was 0 deg. After Lucknow winters this was suddenly not so bad anymore. We immediately put on an extra layer of jacket. This was one of the most scenic flights ever taken. Sitting on the right side gives a gorgeous view of the Himalayas. The ground underneath was covered in a foot high snow everywhere.

Srinagar to Tangmarg - Rs. 1000 (40 Km) (Sharing - 50 Rs)

We hired a prepaid taxi (Available withing the airport) till Tangmarg which is close to Gulmarg. One has to change vehicles here towards Gulmarg as the road is covered in snow and hence only 4WD vehicles or those with chains on their tires can drive. Though the prepaid charged us 1000, there is surely a cheaper way to get here by getting to the city of Srinagar first, which would cost about Rs.50 and then taking the public bus which goes to Tangmarg. Given the lack of time, we went for the costlier option.

Gulmarg Entrance

Tangmarg to Gulmarg - Rs 30 (18 km)
This is the most beautiful part of the journey laced by snow peaked mountains on either sides and dotted with pines. Gives you the feeling that its Christmas. There are Sumos which can drop you at Gulmarg at Rs.30. Sharing a ride to the top is the best way from here. Don't fall into the trap of agents who tell you that buying / hiring gumboots and long coats is a must.


Gulmarg (3 days)

The Govt. Ski hire place

Getting a hotel is particularly easy. There are numerous hotel and people are few. Hotel prices vary as to how far they are from the Ski Slope, their heating facilities (Central heating Vs. Bukhara - Wood in a fire kiln) etc.. The central heating ones on a non weekend day could come for Rs.2500 per day where as the one we stayed (Hotel Sherlyn I guess) charged Rs. 800 (He'd have given for 600). The weekends get busy here owing to the local tourists. We went to IISM to hire skis for the 3 days that we were there. They charged Rs.350 per day for the equipment which was truly world class. They got us an instructor who could teach us skiing. Fayaz (09797868684) was an amazing instructor who taught both of us at the same time. He charged Rs. 500 per day (he will ask for more initially).

View from the Hotel room

Most of the first day was spent in learning to fall in all possible ways. By the end of the second day, both of us were able to ski down the slope at Gulmarg. Skiing was an absolutely thrilling sport which of course is equally tiring. The ski set together with the boots must be weighting around 5 Kgs. Walking up the ski slope each time with the boots was really an ordeal. We skiied all day and were completely exhausted by the evenings. The temparature drops all of a sudden in the evenings. After each day of skiing, we had dinner and Kashmiri Kehwa (Sweet drink with strong cinnamon flavor and dry fruits) each day. We also tried salty kashmiri tea and kashmiri pulao at Gulmarg.

On the third day, we went up on the top of the Phase II through the Gondola. The views from this place were absolutely fantastic. The ride till the top is completely worth it. One can get a clear view of the Nanga Parbat (8014 Mts) and the Sunshine peak as well as the mountains that guard the POK. There is a lake over and final mountain which is a 1km hike on the snow. Phase II is an absolute Skier's paradise. On our way back, we completely used public transport and were charged Rs.80 to get to the city of Srinagar from Gulmarg. We stayed the night at the Dal lake among one of its numerous house boats.

Awesome views atop Phase II

Beware that the security check at Srinagar is much more than the usual airports. The airline scanners close sharp 45 mins before departure and no hand luggage is allowed into the plane except for laptops and Cameras. There are a series of checks even before one reaches the airport. You also get dropped a km before the airport's main entrance if you get there by an auto. So keep atleast 1.5 hrs of buffer rather than the usual 1hr.